By Karen Bowerman
You’ve probably seen the typical shot of Dubrovnik, Croatia’s most popular tourist destination. Taken from a hill overlooking the city, it shows a mass of red-tiled roofs surrounded by a medieval wall encrusted with fortresses and towers. As I took in the scene for real, in the warmth of the Mediterranean sun, it was hard to imagine that this was a city that was once at war. But my taxi driver, who’d stopped to show me the view, remembered it well. “It was 1991 and there were soldiers …
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